Ibiza and Formentera

Ibiza

I arrived to Ibiza with an open mind. Having seen images of it transforming over the years from a bohemian destination to an island full of hedonistic clubbers wearing fluffy white boots dancing all night at a foam party, I decided I would make the most of my Mediterranean escape and enjoy what the island has to offer and leave my pre conceived ideas at home.

Sa Caleta

We were lucky enough to have some very helpful locals take care of us and avoid the stereotypical euro trash crowds and big clubs associated with the island. One of the most memorable days was a beautiful beach called Playa Es Bol Nous though all the signs refer to it as ‘Sa Caleta,’ which refers to the name of the rustic restaurant overlooking the beach. The restaurant is nestled between beautiful golden cliffs and it has easy access to the beach. Sa Caleta specializes in fish, but it also had a dozen or so non-fish dishes. Personally, there was no other option for me than the grilled sardines, mussels and a glass of rose in such an authentic picture perfect setting.The beach was perfect for swimming or just digging your feet into the fine sand. It was a delight that I got to rub shoulders with the Spanish locals rather than the typical Ibiza party crowd.

Cala Benniras

Another highlight of Ibiza was Cala Benirras, a secluded beach with no public bus access. The swimming was amazing with its crystal clear water. There is a great bar full of eclectic locals, artists, and hippies. Next to the bar is a charming restaurant where we had traditional Paella. For me, one of the highlights was watching the sunset with the hippies playing drums and bongos and the beach goers applauding as the sun sank into the horizon. Apparently, every sunset on the beach gets this traditional farewell. It really felt as though we had been given a glimpse of the island’s true Balearic vibe and the spirit that had created part of the island’s mythology. In contrast, we had been taken down to the ‘legendary’ Cafe del Mar (known for its after hours CD compilations) in San Antonio where hundreds of drunken tourists flock to see where it all happened. That day, all that was ‘happening’ was hordes of people taking photos of fire jugglers for hire. Undeniably, something very special occurred at the beachfront cafe back in the day, but alas, no more.

Ibiza Old Town, D’alt Villa

Escaping the main town of Ibiza, and heading up to the old town of D’alt Villa, which means high town, was a real treat. Only local’s cars allowed so it was a nice walk to the destination. The entrance is a grand drawbridge dating back to the 15th Century and it enters into the main square where there are lots of cute gift stores and amazing rustic restaurants on the cobbled roads amongst a labyrinth of pathways. It was like stepping back in time, with old locals carrying baskets of produce and going about their business. Further up was the Church of Santo Domingo, of Gothic architecture dating back to the 10th Century, which was built on top of a mosque. Also, the nearby archaeological museum was exhibiting 3000 years of history. There was quite a contrast coming back down to the main lower town Ciudad Baja with its trashy tourist trap stalls selling junk from hash pipes to tacky souvenirs and beach clothes to more clubby eoro trash designer gears. However, one can’t bash the old port town because the reputation for the party crowd really comes from the other side of the island in San Antonio.

Formentera

With the build up of hordes of tourists on package trips flocking to the Balearic Islands of Ibiza, Majorca and Manorca every summer, Formentera Island (only a 30-minute ferry ride) is becoming the cool place to escape from the clubs and condominiums. Part of its charm is that it is underdeveloped, and the restaurants and hotels don’t have addresses, but rather are named by the town or beach they are in and have hand painted signs. In the ’60’s, the island was populated by boatloads of hippies arriving from Ibiza. Bob Dylan set up a house in a windmill and Pink Floyd held residence in 1969 while producing the soundtrack for the movie ‘More,’ some of which was filmed on the island. Now, it is a scene of its own - a mix of playboy moguls, hippies, designers and models. I guess it would be honest to say that the air of privacy and charm of the island was a good enough reason for them to hide out there, not out of elitism, rather appreciation of the environment, and the low-key vibe.

JUAN Y ANDRE

After arriving on the island, we headed out to a hotspot for an early lunch at Juan Y Andre. This is a regular spot for sailing playboys and the occasional star spotting of likes such as Madonna and King Juan Carlos. We had great pleasure arriving by way of sailboat and coasting right onto the beach in our inflatable.

LAS BENDERAS

Definitely my favorite place on Formentera was Las Banderas, the island’s only boutique bed and breakfast. It is owned by Leah Tillbury (sister of celebrity make up artist Charlotte Tillbury) and the place encapsulated the spirit of the island’s off beat bohemian vibe. It has six private rooms and also a great little store selling quirky beach wraps and jewelry. We stopped by for the afternoon and we were treated to the most amazing outdoor seafood feast overlooking the beach. More surprisingly, for such an amazing place the rate is very reasonable, starting at around US$80 for a double per night.