Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo, Japan

Feature courtesy of Paperplane Magazine

Words Wildred Brandt, Photos Chris Searl

The city of Tokyo is home to 12 million people, but the population of greater Tokyo is 30 million. That means, not only are Tokyo’s streets themselves packed with residents, but every weekday, the city actually swells to nearly three times its size, only to deflate again come nightfall. It’s astounding that such a busy city should remain not only orderly, but quiet and clean. You can spend a week here and count on one hand the number of times you hear a car horn. You can spend all day on the subway and never hear a mobile ring. You can stand in the middle of Shibuya’s busiest thoroughfare during peak hour and not have a single collision.

It’s hard to say why exactly Tokyo’s society works so well, but the great thing for us foreigners is – it does. Crime is virtually non-existent, so you don’t have to worry about being robbed. People are extremely helpful, so you don’t have to worry about getting lost. Food and drink are easily affordable, so you don’t have to worry about going broke. And the city is a psychedelic sensory overload, so you don’t have to worry about growing bored. So jump in headfirst. The worst thing that can happen to you is nothing.

Sleep

As you can tell by the number of skyscrapers wrenched into the city skyline, space in Tokyo is a hot commodity. Therefore, if you’re looking for something grand and expansive, you will probably have to pay. Consider how much time you will spend lounging around and weigh your options (locals scoff that the reason Scarlett Johanson was so miserable in Lost In Translation was because she never left her hotel). If you bring along any electronics (laptop, rechargeable batteries, etc) you will either need to borrow from your hotel, or in some cases, purchase from an electronics store, a three-prong converter. Most hotels have incredibly fast internet access and all the amenities of home, so you should sleep safe and sound anywhere you choose.

Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel, Shibuya
26-1 Sakura-gaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku Tokyo 150-8512
+81-3-3476-3000
Ceruleantower-hotel.com
40 floors of spacious rooms and stunning views (some as far as Mt. Fuji!) situated just minutes away from bustling Shibuya station; this will set you back a bit but is worth it. There’s a restaurant and lounge on the 40th floor, as well as gym and pool facilities, which are quite rare in Tokyo. Request a corner room, as they have views from the tub. Nice.

Park Hyatt, Shinjuku
3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku Tokyo 163-1055
+81-3-5322-1234
Parkhyatttokyo.com
Elegant and classy, this is the ultimate luxury whilst visiting Tokyo (and the ultimate expense), with precision staff, all the comforts of home, and your room cleaned twice daily. Lost In Translation was set here, and while the experience staying there is fantastic, fans of the film looking to visit the restaurant and bar should be forewarned they are overpriced an unaccommodating.

Hotel Excel, Shibuya
Shibuya Mark City Building
1-12-2, Dogenzaka, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo 150-0043
+81-3-5457-0109
Situated directly above the Shibuya train station, it’s impossible to get lost on your way to this one. The rooms are decent, though a bit pricey for the size. The location can’t be beat, but if you’re after a quiet spot away from the hustle and bustle, this isn’t it.

Children’s Castle Hotel
5-53-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo 150-0001
Fun, cheap accommodation for those with children or simply kids at heart, this is a short walk to downtown Shibuya and next to a terrific ABC Books. It’s part of a huge recreation center facility for children, and guests may make use of their pool, roof garden, and gym. From the main road, look for the big bizarre sculptures out front by artist Taro Okamoto.

Hotel Excellent, Ebisu
1-9-5 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo
Located in the more tranquil and classy surroundings of Ebisu, the accommodations here are smaller, but much more affordable. It’s closer to Daikanyama in a terrific building, near lots of quaint stores, cafes, and bars. If you’re looking for a less raucous environment and some quiet(er) streets to roam, this is your place.

Claska, Meguro
1-3-18 Chuo-Cho, Meguro-Ku Tokyo 152-0001
claska.com
This boutique hotel far off the beaten path has a large gallery/DJ party space, bookstore, fantastic landscaped rooftop terrace, and nine uniquely designed rooms. The amenities are sparse, and some rooms can run small, but it’s definitely affordable, and a real treat for any art and design aficionados. The best looking hotel in Tokyo hands down.

Eat/Drink

The Japanese are artisans who take great pride in everything they do, including cooking, so you’ll be hard pressed to find a bad mea, and the good news is you can eat easily for $5 and up. The cuisine is as varied as the people; go traditional with sushi, ramen, or yakitori (chicken skewers) or eat international cuisine from French to Lebanese. Many restaurants have English menus, and most at least feature pictures. For the quintessential Japanese experience, try a slow, elegant “kaiseki” dinner, which combines subtle flavors, peaceful surroundings, and elegant presentation.

Tokyo bars are boisterous yet unthreatening. You will see men passed out drunk, but you will probably never see a fight. Buses and trains stop running around midnight, which is also when the local taxis’ fares triple. So if you miss the last train, you have three choices: spend a bundle on a cab, check into a capsule hotel, or rent a karaoke room and sing ‘till the trains start at 6AM.

Bombay Bazaar, Daikanyama
B1 20-11 Sarugaku-Cho, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo 150-0033
+81-3-5144-8256
Tucked away in a basement amidst the hip and edgy shops of Daikanyama, this hippied out cafe serves scrumptious veggie dishes and curries. And the café’s sand and cedar interior takes eco-friendly to new levels by incorporating entirely recycled furnishings (check out the bird’s nest sculpture near the entrance). They use only organic veggies and grains, and all natural feed and seasonings.

Dean & Deluca, various locations
Deandeluca.co.jp
A New York institution that’s made its way to Tokyo, D&D is a great place to start your day with tasty pastries, deli delights, and a strong latte. With several locations around town, their Shibuya station store is situated within Foodshow, a buzzing marketplace where you can pick up lollies and treats for friends back home, or fresh fish - if you have somewhere to cook it, of course.

Bape Café, Harajuku
3-27-22 Jingumae, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo 107-0062
+81-3-5770-6560
Japanese branding goes far beyond the reaches of our western imaginations, and this is just one clothing label that’s crossed over into the food service industry, albeit easily the most notable. After Bathing Ape designer Nigo outfitted every kid in Japan from hip-hop hipsters to infant toddlers (check the Baby Milo store) he decided, why not feed ‘em too? A cozy, nicely outfitted café with Kaws decorations and a regular queue.

Kinndenmaru, Shibuya
Shibuyaku Udagawa + You 24-6 Tokyo
(in the laneway with all the sneaker stores behind the 109 Building)
There’s hundreds of fantastic ramen shops the size of glorified phonebooths all over town - we just picked one with a cute waitress. For around $6 you get a basketball-sized bowl of the heartiest, tastiest noodles you’ve ever slurped (and slurping is encouraged by local aficionados). In some instances you’ll encounter a vending machine at the entrance, where you purchase a ticket to give the waitress for your meal.

Hiyokoya, Akihabra
On the ground floor of the Takao Building in Showa-dori Tokyo
+81-3-5812-5909
If you’ve always dreamt of being served by Japanese waitresses dressed as cartoon French maids, this is the place for you. Popular with anime-loving otakos, this restaurant serves curry rice, pasta, and pizza all for around $12, and has a “no touching” policy regarding their waitresses. Nearby is another restaurant where waitresses dress up as your choice of Snow White, a high school girl, or Santa’s elf. Creepy.

Ghee
2-18-7 Jingumae, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo 150-0001
+81-3-3401-4023
Definitely some of the best Japanese curry you’re going to come across in Tokyo served in what feels like your nana’s antique shop. They’ve got a big central table to eat at and play reggae music, which seems to be the preferred hipster genre of late in Japan.

Office
Yamazaki Bldg. 2-7-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-Ku Tokyo 107-0061
+81-3-5786-1052
transit-web.com
Great concept – a bar fitted out as an office. If you’re a workaholic you’ll feel right at home, but if you’re a bona fide slacker steer clear of this one. The crowds have died down since the opening, so get in for some terrific tunes and a fantastic view.

Air
Hikaway Bldg. Level B2 2-11 Sarugaku-Cho, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo
+81-3-6415-6231
air-tokyo.com
This friendly, low attitude dance club specializes in house music and was featured in Lost In Translation. Slick, modern interior and de riguer light show with a kinda young crowd. Check their schedule online to see whose playing what kind of music before you head over.

Izakaya, various locales
The Japanese are known for being a very social people, and many are fond of drinking at “izakayas”, which are restaurants/bars where groups sit around low tables eating small portions of food (larger than tapas but not main sizes) and cheap beer or liquor. Many young people and businessman prefer izakayas to “stand up” bars, and this is a great way to experience true Tokyo culture. A local can help you find an izakaya, identified by a paper lantern hanging out front.

Play

Shopping is clearly Tokyo’s preferred leisure activity, and the city is awash with eye-dazzling stores to suit every budget and taste. Harajuku sparkles with trendy fashions and boutiques (we recommend Beams T, Head Porter, Neighbourhood, APC Underground, X-Large/X-Girl, Train, Visvim, and brand new Omatesando Hills). Daikanyama is the ‘hood for hardcore streetwear (Heaven 27, Silas, Styles, Stitch, Bonjour Reccords). Akihabra is a mecca for “otako” (geeky anime and tech-heads – electronics and comic shops). Locals love Shimokitazawa for vintage record shopping and low-key bars with an East Village / Camden vibe. Jinbo-cho is great for antiquarian and art books (Misha, Skatething, and French director Gaspar Noe shop here). Aoyama is home to edgier high-end fare (Loveless, Black Flag, Rocket, Marc Jacobs). Shibuya has a terrific cross-section of stores (Parco, Madarake, Uniqlo, Tower Records and Books, Gas Books, ABC Books, Desperado). To buy great music cheap, Disk Union has several stores, one of the best being their 7-story Shinjuku shop.
Muji, several locations
Muji.net/eng
Though consumerism may be their Achilles heel, the Japanese aren’t slaves to high-priced materialism. Quality takes precedence over price tag, and people are judged not by personal wealth but sense of style, as evidenced by the widespread popularity of cheap, high quality brands like Muji and Uniqlo. Muji sells top-notch basics at double take inducing prices, everything from jumpers to stationary to furniture to pushbikes (for $100!!).

Air Music Video, Shinjuku
Airs-online.com
Two floors of wall-to-wall music DVDs: film clips, live footage, TV interviews, and anything else music related. All videos are rated on quality, professional videos being assessed with an A, B, or C, and amateur videos an X, Y, or Z. If you’ve been wondering where you can buy a compilation of every Smiths video or that live Guns N Roses show where Axl jumped in the crowd and beat up a fan, they’re all here.

Supreme, Daikanyama
1-6 Daikanyama-Cho, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo 150-0034
+81-3-5456-0085
Tokyo kids go crazy for all things originating in skate culture and New York City, so they’re mad for this Daikanyama outlet of the NYC institution. The first skate shop to incorporate clean lines and slick interiors that match their crisp, dope garments. Always ahead of the pack and not to be missed.

Yoyogi Park Harajuku
One of the largest parks in Tokyo, adjacent to Harajuku Station and Shibuya’s Meiji Shrine, this is a tranquil slice of nature amidst the flashing lights and electrical hum of the city. There are bike paths and bike rentals, and the park is a popular hangout on Sunday mornings (the Harajuku entrance is where the radically adorned cartoon goths featured in Fruits congregate).

Karaoke - everywhere
Karaoke venues are littered all over Tokyo, and are a cheap, fun way to spend an evening. For an hourly rate you get a room with couches, a table, and a remote controlled TV screen/karaoke machine. A wall-mounted phone connects you to the front desk to order more pitchers of beer (which you’ll need). Special flourished in some rooms include gaudy black light decorations, and you’ll be astounded at the song selection, from Beck to Bob Marley to Ben Kweller.

Tokyo Dome
Tokyo-dome.co.jp
Known by the locals as “The Big Egg”, Japan’s first domed stadium opened in 1988 and hosts year round concerts, conventions, and sporting events (local baseball team the Yorimuri Giants are extremely popular). The surrounding area features The Baseball Hall Of Fame And Museum, a hotel, restaurants, shops, a bowling alley, and a full-fledged amusement park with a roller coaster that travels through a nearby skyscraper.

Tsukiji Central Fish Market
This gargantuan market is like a small village unto itself, peddling 2500 tons of fish daily not just to Tokyo’s citizens but their restaurants as well. It’s a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and motion. Get here by 8AM before all the little fishies are sold, and best visit before 2012 when the market is meant to move to new digs. There’s a nearby produce and handcraft market as well.

Diary

Hanami (Cherry Blossom viewing), late March/early April
This is easily the most jubilant celebration all year. After each cold, drab winter, Tokyo bursts into vibrant pink as millions of Cherry Blossoms bloom. People congregate beneath these beautiful and unique fauna, drinking and rejoicing.

Sanja Matsuri, May
Matsuris, or “festivals”, occur regularly throughout the Japanese year. This particular event, Sanja Matsuri, takes place at the Asakusa Shrine in downtown where half naked men and (clothed) women carry mikoshi, or “portable shrines”, through the temple grounds as the crowd cheers.

Design Festa, May & November
Designfesta.com
Over 50,000 people attend this, the largest international arts event in Asia, held in spring and fall at the Tokyo International Exhibition Center. Open to professionals and non-professionals it features art and design exhibits, live music, and more.

Koyo (Autumn foliage), mid-November/early December
Just as the cherry blossoms herald the beginning of spring, each autumn the leaves around Tokyo burst into vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows, signifying the end of a hot Tokyo summer. There is a small window of opportunity between when these leaves change and when they drop off – if you catch it, enjoy.

Ganjitsu (New Year’s Day)
Amazing to think that this insane metropolis actually shuts down for three days at New Years, but apparently it does.

Local Hero

Mayumi Horiguchi has lived her whole life in Tokyo and knows the city like the back of her expertly painted nails. In between countless parties and late-night karaoke sessions, she and husband Daisuke Kawasaki publish Beikoku Ongaku, a cutting edge arts and culture mag printed in Japanese and English. Her karaoke favorites include The Specials and Nirvana. Here’s five of her other favorites.

Hiyoko Records, Shimokitazawa
Hondo Apartment 1F, 3-26-6 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku Tokyo 155-0031
+81-3-3485-6009
hiyokorecord@yahoo.co.jp
Open 15:00 – 21:00; closed Wednesdays
“Hiyoko” in English means “chick” or “chicken”, which is just what the owner Makoto’s girlfriend draws on each record bag used at the store. Makoto (aka MAKOTROON, his DJ name) used to run Weekend Records in Williamsburg Brooklyn. Theo Parish, DJ Shadow, and Cut Chemist all love Hiyoko Records and have spent hours shopping for records there.

Jet Set Records, Shimokitazawa
2-2-3-1F &2F Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku Tokyo 155-0031
+81-3-5433-3883
Open 365DAYS 14:00-22:30
http://www.jetsetrecords.net/
Another great record store in the Shimokita area, this Tokyo outlet of Jet Set Records has been open since 2002. A cozy two-storey shop with friendly staff and sharp design, you could browse for hours here. They carry indie pop, breakbeats, underground hip-hop, electronica, techno, abstract, and more.

Unit, Daikanyama
Za House Building, 1-34-17 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku Tokyo 150-0021
www.unit-tokyo.com
This has three stories containing a separate dance club, bar, and café/lounge (open for lunch to late night dinner). Promoters can rent out the entire venue for events, and people like Stussy and Chicks On Speed have thrown parties here. Their website lists upcoming events in English also.

Hallelujah, Okubo
1-5-6 Hyakunin Cho, Shinjuku-ku Tokyo
+81-3-3200-0112
http://www.hallelujah.gr.jp/
A Korean Restaurant in Koreatown, located in “Multicultural City” Okubo, near Shokuan-dori Street (which is full of signs with Korean writing). This street makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a town in South Korea. It used to feel like a buffer zone separating Kabuki-cho to the south (the business district) from the Okubo and Hyakunin-cho areas to the north (the residential district), but in recent years it has become a popular commercial district in its own right. The shops have also expanded.

Mominoki House, Harajuku
2-18-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-Ku Tokyo
+81-3-3405-9144
E-mail: mominoki@hello.odn.ne.jp
Open 7 days 11am - 11pm (Last Order 10:30pm)
http://www2.odn.ne.jp/mominoki_house/
This natural food restaurant is not only good for vegetarians but also vegans. It is quite hard for vegans to find a place to eat in Tokyo - but here’s their place! Famous musicians such as Stevie Wonder and Eric Clapton are fond of this restaurant. They use organic foods and ingredients as well as electronically ionized water in all their dishes.

Read/Watch/Listen

Watch
Densha Otoko, or “Train Man”, is the true story of an otoko who finds love on a Tokyo subway. A huge hit that spawned a manga comic and TV series, many critics have echoed one reviewer’s comment that it’s, “one of the most authentic views of Japanese city life I’ve ever come across.” Other good flicks to get you in the mood for the city are Lost In Translation, whose dreamy cinematography and moody atmospherics do Tokyo justice, and Kill Bill.

Read
For magazines, pick up OK Fred, Relax, Beikoku Ongaku, Quest (free arts & music mag available at place like X-Large and Beams) and Metropolis, “Japan’s No. 1 English Magazine” as the cover claims, free around town at Tower Records or online at metropolis.co.jp. Other good websites are Superfuture.com, “Yes! Tokyo” Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau, www.tcvb.or.jp, or read one of celebrated Japanese author Haruku Murakami’s novels, which are bestsellers all over the world (Kafka On The Shore is his most recent; Norwegian Wood and The Wind-Up Bird Chronicles his most popular).

Listen
Instrumental moody-and-moodswinging Mono sound like a refined version of Mogwai, and produce a chaotic yet precise sound that sums up their city well. Other Japanese noisemakers to psych you up include The Boredoms, Acid Mothers Temple, and Ghost, who rumor has it have lived in run down temples and disused subway stations around Tokyo. For more lighthearted trippy Tokyo sounds, try Cornelius, Pizzicato Five, Fantastic Plastic Machine, and newbie My Bloody Valentine protégés Guitar. And there’s always “the Japanese Ramones,” Guitarwolf.