Hauraki Gulf

Unlike some of the world’s island clusters such as Indonesia, which boasts 17,508 islands in its make-up, New Zealand has, to the un-trained eye (and from space), a modest 2 islands: the north island and the south island. But visit New Zealand for more than 10 minutes and any patriotic Kiwi will tell you that some of the most interesting and beautiful pockets of tranquility in our country can be found on the smaller islands that surround the country’s 2 main landmasses.

One of these is Waiheke Island: a short 35 minute cruise from Auckland’s downtown on a passenger ferry, or 60 minutes via car ferry from Half Moon Bay marina. As a visitor to Auckland, you’re probably best to get the ferry from the city as Half Moon Bay is 35 minutes drive south-bound away from the city.

Most of Waiheke’s inhabitants are laid back and you can feel why as soon as you disembark from the port. The stress of the city seems to fall off your shoulders as soon as the boat gets moving. The boat’s nothing special, but will offer you inside and outside seats and a full-ish compliment of food and beverages for the duration of the trip.

As you approach Waiheke at Matiatia Bay, the island seems grand in scale and relatively uninhabited. You soon find out that there are clusters of houses on the island that make up small suburbs, but nothing like you’ll find anywhere else in New Zealand. Almost all houses have a view of the beach and you can reach a beach on one or both sides of the island from any house within a 5 minute walk or drive.

Oneroa is the first township you come to on Waiheke as you leave the ferry and to be honest it’s about the only thing I’d call a township. It has a couple of banks, grocery stores, video rental shops (for the odd rainy night), cafes with friendly staff serving fresh food, and a few touristy shops selling beach towels, jandals and sarongs. Once you’re through Oneroa the roads become long and windy, taking you past beaches and up over hills, revealing some stunning views of small, private bays and large, unobstructed views out to sea.

Accommodation on the island is best found through one of their accommodation websites, such as www.waihekeunlimited.co.nz. This site will give you access to both motel and resort accommodation, but also a huge array of private homes that are rented out during the year, both in peak and low periods. Prices vary greatly, but there’s something for any budget.

Best beaches to visit include Oneroa, Little Oneroa, Palm Beach and Onetangi (the four top ones). Onetangi is the longest, meaning it can also be the most wind-swept, whereas the others are smaller, offering soft sand shores and a great place to swim. If you’re daring, you can also visit the nudist beach around the corner from Palm Beach. I’ve never been, though. Honest.

For our fine-dining friends there are but two places to eat on the island: Palm Beach Clubhouse in Palm Beach, or Te Whau Lodge on Te Whau Point near Rocky Bay. Te Whau lodge is perched at the end of it’s own peninsula, with truly mind-blowing 270 degree views of the sea. The lodge and restaurant are all top-class, and your wallet will be suitably dented to fit the occasion. The Palm Beach Club House is my personal favourite, with a great location near the beach, excellent down-to-earth staff and a concise but delicious menu. Waiheke’s microclimate is embraced by both eateries that offer superb indoor or outdoor seating, making summer dining here a pleasure.