Places to Sleep in Tokyo We Love

For such a huge city that’s so driven by aesthetic Tokyo has very few chic boutique hotels. In fact, I’ve only ever been able to find one, The Claska. But then, one is all you need and when it’s as good as The Claska. It’s a little bit away from the traditionally groovy areas but it’s only a $20 cab ride to other neighbourhoods you’re likely to visit and the train station’s near by (Tokyo trains are great) so the location’s not an issue at all. The lobby may have the usual trappings of groovy hotels - a cool bar, a nice restaurant, a cute bookstore but it doesn’t feel formulaic. Only 2 floors within the hotel are for hotel guests, the rest are for permanent residents and event spaces including a terrific roof garden. Still, with my room (401) there was no need for a roof garden as I had my own enormous and beautifully laid out Japanese terrace, at least 50sqm, which in Tokyo feels positively monstrous. Add to that the fact that the room itself is also huge by local standards (even with two Queen size beds and a sitting area it felt spacious) and the overall effect is one of luxury and space. I always feel small and slightly lost alone in a large bed, I never know whether to sleep on one side or in the middle so imagine my added confusion when I came home on my second day to find the two Queens had been pushed to together to create, well I don’t know what size you’d call it, but it was big and it obviously wasn’t spur of the moment because the sheets and duvet were also super jumbo size. Overall the interiors of the rooms are beautiful: modern homely and very Japanese. Not a suggestion of minimalism anywhere. Phew. The little details are all perfect. The lighting’s sensational, low and soft and golden. The curtains are beautiful - three different thicknesses to choose from and no scrimping on the fullness of them. The duvet’s quite possibly the chunkiest, fluffiest I’ve ever slept under. Free internet, though not Wi-Fi unfortunately for those of us who like to e-mail, surf or Skype while propped up in bed. On the down side the TV only has 2 English speaking channels (and I’m not a big fan of CNN or MTV) but there’s a stereo so you can always fall back on the ever-reliable iPod. The service, in the true Japanese tradition of ‘okyaku-sama wa kamisama desu’ (the customer is God) is excellent.

Bottom line on The Claska: a must. Book early though as there are very few rooms and they’re often fully booked.

Claska Hotel, 1-3-18 Chuo-cho, Meguro-ku, Tokyo, 152-0001. + 03 3719 8121; www.claska.com