The Amalfi Coast, Italy
Marion Hume | October 4th, 2009
Photos by Peter Hunt
Ah, the glories of Italy’s Amalfi coast. Of course, it is overrun with pleasure seekers in August, so visit in May, June, July or September. What’s also good news is there are places to stay that are affordable, even with the robust Euro and others that are, frankly, worth pushing the boat out for if you are feeling flashy.
Splurge - Five Star
Italians, such as the head of press for Bulgari, stay at the five star Santa Caterina, which is to say it is not just for visiting Americans who have been advised of its wonders by some high-class travel agent. It is run by the magnificently named Crescenzo Gargano, and owned by his mother and his aunt. The hallway is full of images of its illustrious past, but don’t linger there, because you want to go straight out onto the terrace and drink in the kind of views that you believe have been retouched, but, here, actually exist. As this is the splurge choice of the Amalfi coast, go the whole hog and book in to the super-private honeymoon suite, accessed through its own lemon grove. Formerly the hunting lodge of a nobleman who used it to shoot birds nesting on this vertiginous hillside, it is now completely private, with its own pool. Although you’ll want to venture down to the main pool, reached by a James Bond style glass lift.
Location: Right on the cliff above the bustling and historic town of Amalfi, capital to the nation’s most ancient maritime republic. The cathedral is 10th century, there are ancient shipyards bearing testimony to a fine maritime past, and apparently you can sail to the island of Capri from here, but why would you bother if you were staying at the best hotel on this whole coast? Why the best? The location, the delicious and yet not overwrought, fresh and fabulous food, the great wine list and a host called Crescenzo.
Ambience: La Dolce Vita lives on.
Clientele: Rich of course, however because so many of them are Italians, absolutely gorgeously well dressed pack that white bikini.
Rooms: White, light, with traditional tiles and lovely terraces. Expect vast white beds, sunken baths, billowing white curtains and Mediterranean grandeur. Empty the bank account and check in for seven nights.
Eating & Drinking: The Al Mare restaurant at the Beach Club overlooks the swimming pool hewn out of the cliff face. The Santa Caterina restaurant has a wonderful view over Amalfi, or just order room service, to be delivered to your candlelit terrace.
Best thing: The hosts. This is a family run hotel, where other five stars tend to be management run.
Worst thing: Having to check out
Price: Five star prices and worth it.
Santa Caterina, +39 089 871012; www.hotelsantacaterina.it, info@hotelsantacaterina
For deals, try experts on the region, Long Travel www.long-travel.co.uk
Live La Dolce Vita - Four Star
It’s a family affair in these parts. The mother of Crescenzo, above, runs this hotel with her husband (and his sister, her daughter owns the superb restaurant, Eolo (+ 39 089 871241) just along the street). While Mama runs this place with a rod of iron (you could do your make-up in the reflection of the floors, this place is SPOTLESS) there is also enormous warmth, which is why in August, you will be hard pressed to get in, as regulars book year to year. Any other month, make the call (some of the best deals are done direct).
Location: On the last bend of Amalfi’s promenade and beach, so far enough away from the endless souvenir shops flogging bottles of limoncello in the shape of the map of Italy, and a hop and skip down to the shore (the Marina Riviera has its own section of the beach, complete with umbrellas and loungers).
Ambience: Bright and Mediterranean, although the details in the rooms have a Balinese style.
Clientele: You’ll only see them at breakfast. Everyone wants to do their own thing, lounging on private terraces (a few rooms have them) up on the rooftop sun deck or down on the beach. The bar and snack area is warm, but not over busy.
Rooms: Ask for one with a terrace, although all rooms have good views. The top price rooms are quite Italian in style, which is to say the vast plasma TVs take up some of the space. Go for the smallest suite, with a terrace.
Eating & Drinking: This is a breakfast and then snacks by the bar kind of place. There¹s no need for a restaurant when another member of the family owns the superb one next door.
Best Thing: It’s so clean! Sorry to mention that twice, but if that TV programme ‘How Clean Is Your House?’ were to do a version called ‘How Clean is Your Hotel?’ this place is a shoo-in for the winner’s podium.
Worst Thing: The dominance of huge plasma TVs in the top rooms, but that reflects what the local market desires.
Price: Mama knows how to cut a deal. Her online prices are the best you will find anywhere. However, she believes not in price slashing, but in adding value, so while you’ll find cheaper, here, they will lay on the extras with a trowel.
Marina Riviera, + 39 089 871104 ; www.marinariviera.it, info@marinariviera.it
Good Value: Three Star
This is a find. ‘Discovered’ by American fashionista, Mary Gallagher, she went every Easter for several years until she met a local boy and international artist called Angelo Aversa, married him and they are now the parents of Cosimo. So Mary decided to share the secret. Ravello, the prettiest of all the Amalfi region’s towns, has plenty of hotels including the super-grand (and very lovely) Hotel Caruso and the Villa Cimbrone which once entertained Greta Garbo as a guest. However, why not lunch at the posh ones and stay at this sweet, secret former nunnery? (The fourth wall, which shielded the nuns from the spectacular view over the sea has thankfully been removed). A group of local brothers and cousins, headed by the charming Antonio (he reminded me of Gordon Urquhart in Local Hero) took over the hotel where their late father had once worked. They have big plans, for a pool and further renovations, but go now while it is still distinctly affordable. So what that some of the bathrooms are still a bit shabby? The kindness and the views make up for the lack of a power shower.
Location: High on a hill in glorious Ravello, surely the prettiest place on the Amalfi Coast.
Ambience: Attentive but respectful service, the glorious views from the rooms with terraces make you feel so laid back.
Clientele: Mixed - some people just passing through attracted by prices lower than others in this town, others ‘in the know’ and Italian families who return year after year (the home-cooked Easter Sunday lunch is a sellout).
Rooms: Delightful. Some still in the process of being renovated, so a little shabby but the price reflects that. Those recently renovated feature lovely Tuscan floor tiles and, the big plus, exceptional views over the sea or to the hills above.
Eating & Drinking: The rule of those who know Italy well - the uglier the dining room, the better the food. This is the kind of joint where they have the breakfast cereals laid out behind a faux wicker screen when you sit down to your Half Board inclusive dinner the night before. But oh, what food! This place is run by brothers and cousins and they are going all out to make it a (very good value) food destination. So what that the table cloths may not be white linen; the views from the dining room window are sensational and the three and four course home cooked meals served are so good that having booked half board for a few nights + a few nights B&B, (only allowed off season) we changed to half board every night because we didn’t want to miss the menu. Much of the produce is grown right here. That muddy patch down there? It’s the hotel’s potato field.
Best Thing: A long list… Antonio¹s exceptional caring service, the fresh food, the fact they know how to cook vegetables, the views, the price.
Worst Thing: The website. It makes the place look like crap. Perhaps they will re-do it once the pool is installed and this place adds more stars?
Price: Distinctly affordable, especially if you contact Antonio at the hotel direct and choose a room that has not yet been renovated (expect a dodgy bathroom, but what the hell).
The Hotel Parsifa, + 39 (0) 89 857144; www.hotelparsifal.com, info@hotelparsifal.com
