A Winter Weekend in Queenstown Lakes District
Karen Walker | June 29th, 2010
My favourite winter escape in New Zealand has always been the Queenstown Lakes District. Nothing to do with the snow! My snowboard gathered dust in the closet for years before ultimately being sold. It’s more about those crisp days, roaring fires, lake side walks and some pretty good Pinot noir! Here are my ten favourite things for a mountain and lake weekend escape.
1. A Touch of Spice - For the very best in luxury accommodation choose from the many wonderful properties at A Touch of Spice. All their properties are exceptional. We stayed at Millcreek in Arrowtown, which is possibly the loveliest house I’ve ever holidayed in with its modernist style it’s stunningly juxtaposed against the surrounding mountains.
A Touch of Spice; www.touchofspice.co.nz
2. Saffron and the Blue Door - One of the area’s best know and most beloved restaurants, Saffron is a classic and a must visit. Everything on the menu has been considered down to the smallest detail and it manages to be completely modern and also entirely comforting all at once. Highlights at our table were a great beetroot and haloumi salad (and trust me, I’ve had a few) and central Otago pheasant. Plus a tart tartin that we shared and that disappeared in about 30 seconds. The service was unforgettable also. 10 out of 10. Take your time, not a restaurant to rush through your meal. Savour it! Begin or end the night with drinks at The Blue Door across the lane. This little gem of a bar is tucked away on the original store room of the general store, dating back to the late 1800s. An absolute must for any trip the lakes district.
Saffron and the Blue Door , 18 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown. + 03 442 01 31; www.saffronrestaurant.co.nz
3. Botswana Butchery - New on the restaurant scene here is The Botswana Butchery. It’s set in a classic Queenstown cottage right next to Lake Wakatipu and has a sensational menu and wine list. Definitely worth a visit and best for a leisurely dinner.
Botwana Burtchery, 17 Marine Parade, Queenstown. + 03 442 6994; www.goodbars.co.nz
4. Cook’s Store and Deli - What a find! When I asked at the Arrowtown information centre if there was a deli nearby I expected blank looks. Instead, I got the (near perfect) mini deli/ café. Tucked away down a little laneway, Cook’s Store and Deli has the kind of fresh home made pastries, soups, risotto cakes and pies that make you want to put a pinny on! Also a wonderful selection of fresh pasta, some great cheeses and other little treasures. The perfect spot for a meal or snack any time of day or the makings for a picnic lunch.
Cook’s Store and Deli, 40 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown. + 03 442 0992
5. The Remarkable Sweetshop - Arrowtown’s a funny spot. It is astoundingly beautiful, especially in mid April, but I always feel like I’m on the lot at a movie studio, which has just wrapped shooting its umpteenth gold rush film. Walking down the main street is like stepping into a painted backdrop. The tourists love it though, and that makes for an awful lot of sheepskin and paua. I’m painting an unflattering picture. I adore Arrowtown, not just for its setting and its unmistakable charm, but for the wonderful little gems it throws up at you. In addition to Saffron, The Blue Door, Cook’s Store and Deli and Dorothy Brown’s Cinema one of my favourite spots there is The Remarkable Sweetshop. What a little treasure! Its selection of homemade fudge is unmissable. Worth the trip for that alone.
The Remarkable Sweetshop, 27 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown; www.remarkablesweetshop.co.nz
6. Gibbston Valley and Amisfield Winery - This region is of course famous for its wines and there are dozens of great wineries but my favourite spot for wine tasting is the Gibbston Valley. It has over a dozen wineries, all of them sensational. My favourites are Brennan and Peregrine. Opposite ends of the spectrum; Peregrine grand and imposing, Brennan’s intimate and casual, but both home to wonderful vintages. Amisfield is one of the most beloved of the region’s wineries. Perhaps because it’s such as easy spot to stop in and really enjoy some great food while soaking up the sun or the fire. A must stop spot for lunch or a mid afternoon snack to finish off a strenuous day of wine tasting.
Amisfield. + 03 442 0556; www.amisfield.co.nz
7. Vesta - A fairly recent addition to the Queenstown landscape and a real treasure, Vesta is in a traditional worker’s cottage right on Lake Wakatipu and it’s completely charming. From the delightful little front yard vegetable garden (from which my 2 year old shoplifted an apple straight off the tree – a novelty for a city girl) to the delightful series of little rooms offering a fresh take on souvenirs. The highlight though is the gorgeous and tiny café tucked in at the back. Complete magic.
Vesta, 19 Marine Parade, Queenstown. + 03 442 56 87
8. The Spa at Millbrook - No weekend’s complete without a little pampering and The Spa at Millbrook is amongst the best I’ve been to. They’re well known for their steam bath, which leaves you feeling as though there’s not a single bit of stress or tension on your body. Let alone any strength. Make sure you’ve got an easy afternoon lined up. You won’t want to do anything more strenuous than reading a book.
The Spa at Millbrook. + 03 4417000; www.millbrook.co.nz
9. The Hills’ Spa - The Hills is of course Arrowtown’s newest and most exclusive golf course. I know nothing about golf but The Hills is breathtaking, both on the fairway and in the club house which is monumental and a real gift to the environment. You don’t have to be into golf to appreciate The Hills, or their sensational spa. They have a full offering, all the classics as well as an unbeatable Thai massage. You won’t find many spas as relaxing and luxurious as this.
The Hills, Rapid 164 McDonnell Road Arrowtown. + 03 409 8290; www.thehills.co.nz
10. Milford Sound - I’m ashamed to say it’s taken me half a lifetime to get to Milford Sound. After having our flights cancelled 2 days running we were finally able to get over there on our last day in town. The flight’s slightly hair-raising, even on a perfect and cloudless day, but well worth it. The 2-hour cruise around the sound was awe-inspiring. I felt that I was in an 18th century oil painting. This is something no one would ever regret doing. An absolute must. A reminder just how small and insignificant we are. On the day we went there wasn’t a single cloud in the sky, which is very rare for this area, but it was still only around 3 degrees (around 35 F). With three layers of cashmere, a goose down puffer AND a Gortex windbreaker I was just about warm enough. Go prepared.




