Bedarra Island

If you were to ask a nutritionist if it’s humanly possible to gain two kilograms in just three days I think he’d say no. However, I can vouch, through personal experience, that it is entirely doable. Such is the magic of the Great Barrier Reef’s Bedarra Island that for weeks after our return I shall have to avoid all cake-based temptations to regain equilibrium. It was worth it though. Let me reminisce about the three-course breakfasts (“Yes, please, I will have the croissant and mini almond friand to start”), the four-course lunches (“We’ll take the cheeseboard on the sunloungers today, I think”) and the five-course dinners (“Have we saved enough room for the petits fours? Of course”).

Did I mention the wine? Normally for me wine is a no-no during lunch, but on this holiday – well, where was there to get to afterwards? The list at Bedarra is extensive and impressive, but it was a particularly delicious Wither Hills’ pinot gris that caught my eye and remained my choice throughout our stay when we weren’t enjoying champagne and canapés on the terrace of our Point Villa at cocktail hour, that is.

If I make our three days on Bedarra Island sound entirely gluttonous, they were. It’s not as if there are no activities other than eating in the offing. There’s napping, for instance – although choosing between the double day bed on the deck of the villa or the loungers on the golden sand under perfect palm trees does prove somewhat difficult. Then, there is the swimming. It is almost impossible to decide between the waves at either of the two perfect beaches or the private plunge pool just beyond our living room. Thanks to Mr. Smith’s bung wrist there was no tennis (yay!), but there was morning yoga on the deck. An hour of Downward Facing Dogs and Warrior Poses was made easy in the warm, tropical air with the morning sun glinting on the sea. Talk about heavenly. That was more than enough exercise, though. Where’s that book I was reading on the beach yesterday and, more importantly, is the masseuse coming to the room for a pre-cocktail hour session tonight? Tough days, indeed.

This is what a true holiday is all about – not having to rush anywhere at any time. So slothful were we that we didn’t even take the short boat trip to experience snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef itself. This is something I’ll probably always feel slightly regretful of, what with it being one of the seven wonders of the natural world and all, but with only three days to relax I just wanted to laze, gaze and graze.

Bedarra Island is tiny, with only 16 villas, and in our time there we seldom glimpsed other guests. There’s perhaps half a dozen at breakfast and occasionally we spot a couple wandering along the beach. We took our lunches and dinners entirely alone on the expansive terrace leading to the sand. What a delight to sit for hours only a few metres from the beach and ocean, watching the crabs and scrub turkeys going about their business as if we didn’t exist.

The decking area, a wonderful place to enjoy the view, is shaded by spectacular natural rainforest, dominated by an enormous fig tree. All the plantings across Bedarra are equally as impressive. It feels entirely native, and the villas and main guest area appear to have been gently lowered into the vegetation without disturbing a single palm. There are surprisingly few birds on the island, but hundreds of resident butterflies spanning dozens of varieties turn Bedarra into a real-life butterfly house.

Apart from the two perfect, pint-sized beaches, the coastline, comprised of huge boulders smoothed by the actions of waves, is rugged and wild. On the main beach there are even a few of these giant stones scattered along the sand, adding a romantic, castaway vibe to the scene.

There is no doubt that our villa – elevated above the others and overlooking Hernandia Bay and distant isles – is the island’s most coveted. It’s a far enough walk from the main lodge to feel completely private but not so far as to make the stroll strenuous. Heaven knows we didn’t want to strain ourselves. The interior was beautifully designed – elegant and luxurious yet relaxed. The bedroom was elevated to enjoy the views, a huge living area with comfortable sofas would be very cosseting on afternoons during the rainy season and, of course, there’s the expansive deck with double day bed and heated plunge pool. What could be better?

My favourite part of the day was dusk. While waiting for our champagne and canapés to be delivered to our villa, Mr. Smith and I would lie in the plunge pool, floating at the infinity edge, watching the light change over the sea and wondering what was for dinner.

To book a villa at Bederra Island contact Mr & Mrs Smith.

Mr & Mrs Smith, 2nd floor, 334 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5TA, United Kingdom. + 44 (0)20 8987 6970 or + 1 866 610 3867; www.mrandmrssmith.com