Rebecca May Johnson | March 1st, 2013
There’s always one restaurant which everyone is fighting for a table at during fashion week – and this season in Milan, it was Pisacco, where Andrea Berton, one of Italy’s most important chefs, is working his magic. A table next to all the key players at Prada and Loewe, perhaps? Veteran designer Tiziano Vudafieri responsible for big player high-end retail spaces like Tod’s, Pucci and Jimmy Choo did the interior – but didn’t make it too razzy. Bare wooden floors, industrial-style light fittings, painted white brickwork, and simple chairs contrast with a punky mural by the artist Gabriella Ciancimino, not allowing it to veer into ‘tasteful-but-dull’ territory. The dishes put together by Berton are executed with minimal fuss, and with moments of wonderful originality: farro grain with grilled shrimps and rosemary oil; braised beef tongue, parsley sauce, caramelized pears; roasted artichokes, grilled sardines, or a simple hamburger. Desserts are good too – we enjoyed the Steamed pear, hazelnut cookie with chocolate and ginger. A table worth fighting for.